EMBRACED BY EPIPHYTES, a lone pine tree shoots past a white gompa with colourful motifs. An elderly monk circumnavigates the sanctum against the soundtrack of his slow footsteps and birdsong. The serenity of Dorzong Monastic Institute is in keeping with the demeanour that befits a monastery. Even outside the complex, there is no clamour or any signs of commercial footprint. At first, it's hard to believe that this gem exists barely under an hour from the sought-after Dalai Lama temple, but it's less surprising when you get up close with Rakh, so content in its obscurity.
On the way from Dharamshala to Palampur in Himachal Pradesh, the diversion from Nagri takes travellers on the road less travelled and leads them to the village of Rakh. This is my third time in the region, and yet, the first that I have even heard of this settlement. Up a winding tarmac road, flanked by the Neugal Khad that flows downstream, and past a couple of small general stores, I make it to Rakkh Resort, my accommodation named after the village. I settle into my room overlooking rolling hills and a pine forest, which I am to explore later in the day. The hibiscus infusion brewing in my cup holds my attention for now, for nothing captures mountain mood better than plonking oneself in a balcony and admiring the view with a warm drink. In a couple of hours, I change into my walking shoes and ready myself to get to know the story of Rakh.
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