Eyes Of The Night

An evening safari in Satpura Tiger Reserve brings the lore and nuances of the forest to the fore.

- Chirag Mohanty Samal

AS WE SIT ENVELOPED in the velvety darkness of the evening, in a safari gypsy, I ask our guide, “Does the tiger come here?” pointing at the small pond right ahead. “Shh, don’t make any noise,” he quickly responds. I fall silent and turn my attention to the orchestra of crickets that pierce the moonlit night. We are in Satpura Tiger Reserve, the vehicle headlights are off lest we scare away the animals.

The pale moon casts shadows of towering trees—they seem like mythical creatures who could jump to life at any time. Leaves occasionally rustle or an animal sprints by, adding to the fantastical setting. Time ticks by but the elusive beast does not make an appearance. Our guide points to the paw marks on the ground and says, “Proof that he is around but isn’t showing up.” After a short wait, we move on to another spot, our eyes intently scanning the underbrush, with binoculars poised for action.

At a distance, we spot a pair of eyes glowing in the dark. Our guide quickly flashes his spotlight revealing a civet in all its spotted and striped glory. But in the next moment, it makes a dash for the nearby bush and vanishes out of sight. “Civets are not easily spotted,” says our guide, as some consolation. Little ahead, we find three swamp deer, grazing peacefully. As the vehicle inches closer, they remain unfazed by the intrusion and continue with the nocturnal prowl.