FISHEYE VIEW OF LUCKNOW

On a seemingly typical trip to Lucknow, KHUSHBOO RAMNANE chances upon the tale of two fish that form the leitmotif of the architecture, decorative arts, and cuisine of the Awadh region.

- KHUSHBOO RAMNANE

IN A CRISP spring morning, I am ushered from the iconic Rumi Darwaza to a slightly raised part called Laxman Tila. In between rose plantations and a soft-hued Awadhi sky, my eyes fall on the motif of a pair of fish. Mahi Maratib (the fish standard) was the highest honour of bravery in the Mughal empire. It was conferred upon the highest dignitaries by the emperors. The twin fish gained more prominence in time and became the chief element of the royal insignia of Awadh. Over the day, I would realise that the fish is omnipresent in the Awadh region, from every ancient gate in the city and the state crest to organza chikankari saris and modern-day logos.

My guide Samir is a Lucknow native runs a conscious travel outfit called Deep Dive India. He stops us several times on our tour to rummage in his bag for archival photos, maps, and paintings depicting the buildings as they were centuries ago. "You see down there?" he says pointing in the direction of the river. "That's where Saadat Ali Khan or Buhran Ul Mulk came from. He was sent by Akbar to become the overlord of the Awadh region." This region is of formidable significance; it has atmospheric monuments that follow the Fibonacci series and other scientific principles, tehzeeb or mannerisms that underscore its rich diversity, and food that symbolizes cultural and culinary syncretism. It is believed that control over Uttar Pradesh meant control over the entire country.