The North Remembers

The Pohjola Route in Finland is a blend of the country's finest landscapes, from reindeer farms to riverine islands and majestic alpine forests and fells. Lakshmi Sharath embarks on a journey that feels straight out of a fairy tale.

THE CHOPPY SEAS tossed our boat high up in the air as the roaring waves whipped up a frenzy of foam right across our faces. But in a moment, it was all over. The anger melted as the calm waves gently rocked the boat, and we saw the shore in the distant horizon. We were a motley bunch of travellers in a lone boat surrounded by the azure waters of the Gulf of Bothnia, cruising from the coastal town of Kalajoki to the uninhabited Maakalla Island in Finland.

It was our first day exploring the Pohjola or the Northern Route, a microcosm of authentic Finland, also dubbed as the birthplace of the Nordic country. Surrounded by 900 kilometres of fells and forests, there are over ten pristine destinations along the scenic route in the Bothnian Bay, around the fascinating city of Oulu, and Kalajoki with its sandy shores is one of them.

It was windy as we landed at the lost island of Maakalla, which has been autonomous since the 18th century with its own independent rules and laws. The rugged landscape seemed straight out of a fairy tale, dotted with about 40 wooden huts of fishermen, painted in hues of red and white, with skulls of seals hanging on the doors. Beckoned by a quaint Pauper Statue asking for donations, I stumbled upon a quaint wooden church, shaped like a boat, where most of the residents had been married. A tiny museum, a tower, and a petite old lighthouse perched on a pile of rocks added to the romantic vibe. Time virtually stood still on this island, which was deserted except for a smattering of residents who came here during the summers.