THE WIND AT THEIR BACKS

On a road trip through the unassuming towns of Norfolk, in England’s far east, JESSICA VINCENT meets the entrepreneurs and chefs charting a sustainable future while honouring the region’s seafaring past.

- JESSICA VINCENT

COMPARED WITH DEVON and Cornwall, Norfolk-the English county with more waterways than either Venice or Amsterdam-has historically managed to avoid attracting crowds. This is partly because the region is hard to reach: tucked away in the far east of England, there's no motorway connecting it to London, and it's a two-hour train ride from the capital to Norfolk's main hub, Norwich.

It is that sense of seclusion, perhaps, that has attracted kings, queens, and wealthy landowners to this windmill-dotted area for more than a millennium. England's fifth-largest county has dozens of stately residences, including Houghton Hall-the home of Britain's first prime minister, Robert Walpole-and Sandringham Estate, Queen Elizabeth II's beloved country retreat. But it's only in recent years that the royals have brought international attention to Norfolk: the presence of William and Kate, who've owned a property in the North Norfolk town of Anmer since 2011, has created a buzz that has attracted award-winning young chefs, boutique hoteliers, and pioneering tour companies.

A strong sense of identity-deeply rooted in the county's seafaring history and a passion for sustainability-remains. On a wet August weekend, I sailed, walked, and ate my way through Norfolk to meet the people building its future.

FRIDAY

With one hand desperately clinging to a rope swaying in the wind, I curled my toes over the boat's rain-soaked hull before stepping forward and plunging myself into the fast-moving gray below.

I had just leaped off My Girls, a 1960s crab boat that, in 2016, Coastal Exploration Co. (coastal exploration company.co.uk) repurposed to sail visitors along the creeks and open waters of the North Norfolk coast.