Whether it’s fiery ‘goat water’, lobster with hot pepper sauce, curried yam or Killer Bee rum cocktails, Nevis offers the simple pleasures and a taste of the Caribbean with a serious kick.
One handwritten sign says 'Hot soup sells here' while another offers up 'Live rabbits, ducks, local drinks, noni (fruit) juice'. I’m drawn not so much by today’s bull foot broth, but by the bright aqua colours of the shack and the smile of a little boy I later learn goes by the name of J’Kingley. This is the roadside shop, pop-up cafe and petting zoo of the Liburd family, a joyous ramshackle place at the edge of the New River Estate on the Caribbean island of Nevis. My guava juice is not only cold and sweet, but freshly squeezed and delightfully cheap.
Once a sugar plantation, the New River Estate presides on the south east of this little island measuring just six by eight miles. Most of the stone edifices of the mills and boiling and curing houses that dominated the place during the slave trade remain; in 1655 sugar was the most important export crop from Nevis, the oldest British colony in the Caribbean. Some of these old plantations lie in decay, while others have been converted into hotels, residences and restaurants. In spite of the blood and toil upon which they were built, they’re still stoically beautiful.
It’s at the foot of one such mill in the Maddens area that I meet up with Alfred ‘Baba’ Tyson, a former police officer who leads nature tours of the verdant island. As we walk through the rainforest, he stops to pick up various herbs, squashes them in his hand to release the scent and asks me to guess what it is. I can’t and he tells me this one with the spicy overtones may smell like curry leaves but is actually mint basil.
“We boil and make tea with it when we have a cold,” he says.
この記事は National Geographic Traveller (UK) の September 2016 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は National Geographic Traveller (UK) の September 2016 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
Dianne Whelan
THOUGH NOT A SEASONED HIKER TO BEGIN WITH, THE FILMMAKER BECAME THE FIRST PERSON TO COMPLETE THE WORLD'S LONGEST TRAIL NETWORK
NIGERIA
The country's many communities come together over hearty meals with plenty of heat
Katie Hale
A VOYAGE TO THE GREAT WHITE CONTINENT IS BOTH A DREAM COME TRUE AND A CALL TO ARMS, TO PROTECT OUR ICY POLES AND, IN TURN, OUR PLANET
WILTSHIRE
BEYOND THE MAIN ATTRACTION OF STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE HAS EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT SITES, GIANT CHALK HORSES AND COSY PUBS IN HISTORIC VILLAGES
BATH
Thermal baths and Regency heritage have put this Somerset city firmly on the travel map - and this year the spotlight will be on former resident and literary great Jane Austen, in celebration of the 250th anniversary of her birth
GRANADA
In this Andalucian city, flamenco is an art form as well as a way of life not just for traditional dancers and singers but also for hip-hop stars, classical guitar legends and street artists
India's Golden Triangle
LINKING DELHI, THE TAJ MAHAL AND THE PINK CITY OF JAIPUR, WITH DETOURS FOR TEMPLES AND TIGERS, THIS IS THE PERFECT ROUTE FOR FIRST-TIMERS. WORDS: POOJA NAIK
FORGED BY FIRE
A SUBTROPICAL ISLAND IN THE ATLANTIC, MADEIRA HAS RUGGED VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS THAT RISE ABOVE THE CLOUDS, NATURAL SWIMMING POOLS DOWN AT SEA LEVEL AND MORE THAN 1,900 MILES OF HISTORIC AQUEDUCTS TRACING THE LANDSCAPES IN BETWEEN
ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
A KAYAKING EXPEDITION THROUGH NORWAY'S LOFOTEN ISLANDS OFFERS WHITE-SAND BEACHES, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS AND THE CHANCE TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER VIKING
the RETURN
ON A PRIVATE GAME RESERVE IN SOUTH AFRICA'S KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE, AN UNLIKELY CREATURE IS MAKING A TENTATIVE COMEBACK - AND VISITORS ARE OFFERED A GLIMPSE INTO THE CONSERVATION EFFORTS TO SAVE IT AND OTHER NATIVE WILDLIFE
