The perfect wave, does it exist? Finn Mullen examines the hunt in the modern age and how it can have surprising results.
“We’re just travelling around,” said the antipodean surfer. He was on the road with his girlfriend, just looking for waves in a remote corner of Europe. It was a distinctly average day surf wise, but the wind battered waves were worth staring at just in case they changed, but no matter how hard we looked, they didn’t. His girlfriend’s gaze was fixed elsewhere, engrossed in a Sherlock Holmes book, she lounged with an air of indifference on the back seat of their rusting VW. “Where’s good today?” he asked. I resisted the urge to say ‘it’s elementary’. “Here,” I laughed. It wasn’t the answer he wanted to hear but he smiled, nodding his head. ‘Just travelling’ has its ups and downs. If what he was searching for was just waves, he’d found them, but he wasn’t settling for average, there had to be something better. In his mind, the perfect score lay just round a corner. A map of Ireland lay open on the dashboard; the convoluted coastline with endless bays and craggy points is a surf explorer’s dream. Like a sailor being lured to the rocks by the siren’s call, I could see his mind urging him to find that elusive perfect wave; it was out there surely. In my mind, today at least, he was hunting unicorns. He sighed and accepted reality, sanguine to his plight. He’d come to Ireland to surf the perfect waves that are peddled in magazines, websites and videos. They exist, as they do in many parts of the world, it’s just in real time you can’t the filter out the sub-perfect or fast-forward through imperfections; the journey to perfection is longer than skipping through the analogue pages of print or the instant score of a click on the www. But in our modern world, is it becoming easier or harder to manage our expectations of perfection and the process of finding it?
Park life
この記事は SUP International の Summer 2018 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は SUP International の Summer 2018 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
Turning Points
With spring in the air and the start of a new decade, thoughts naturally turn to what we can do differently in the name of betterment. Finn Mullen reflects on some changes to consider when looking to improve your SUP surfing.
THE CLOSE OUT- TREV'S GREAT BIRTHDAY ADVENTURE
I have had my fair share of great birthdays, usually coinciding with a national holiday in a country that I’m visiting. But this one was a bit different.
Paddle Science #18 - The Body Fortress. Boosting Immunity
At this time of year, the rate of infection for colds and flu normally tends to slow down as we enter warmer, springtime months. However, if you’ve been anywhere at all in the world recently, then there’s one word you can’t escape at the moment: Coronavirus. Infection rates, mortality rates and prognostic data are changing daily at the moment. As a new virus none of us have previously been exposed to it, meaning that currently, we have no immunity to it. It’s only through being infected by a virus that our bodies are able to make the right antibodies to not only enable us to recover but to also help protect us from any recurrent and future infection from it. If you’re keen to stay well and keep getting out on your SUP board this spring, then focussing on boosting your immune system is a positive step to take.
Ceylon Stories
Like a teardrop on the tip of the Indian sub-continent, Sri Lanka is a little tropical El Dorado of beautiful landscapes, rich cultural heritage and people with incomparable kindness. Thanks to its favorable exposure to the swells of the Indian Ocean, the has a large number of good waves along its incredible southwest coast where French pro Alexis Deniel and his partner Melanie had an unforgettable experience this winter. Discover their colorful journey through this dream destination sharing its jewels after decades of civil war and the tragedy of the 2004 tsunami.
Polar Bear
In 2019, the Polar Bear showed the world his teeth. After a fourth place in the toughest SUP race in the world, the Red Bull Heavy Water, the now 19-year old Christian Anderson became World Champion in November in the Technical Race at the ISA World Championships in El Salvador. He also won the U-18 title on the Euro Tour with an 11th place overall. What’s behind the young Dane's rise to power?
SHADENFREUDE
TEST REPORTS
Desire Lines
We were on the outskirts of Helsinki, scouting a new destination for our sup camps. Just 45 minutes’ drive from the city, the untouched nature of the Nuuksio National Park stretched out before us. Mirror-smooth lakes, wild herbs and an impressive fauna waiting to be explored over on board or on foot via the many desire lines made by the land mammals.
Magical. Mystical. Epic.
Alexandra is a club ambassador and SUP racer for Bray Lake; relatively new to the SUP scene she completed her first race season in 2019. She participated in her first international event, the Gla Gla, 2020, and placed 1st Brit, 8th lady and 81st overall, out of a mass start of 637 paddlers. Here she shares the highlights of her first Gla Gla experience.
Green Medicine
As a keen outdoorsman and busy GP, Paul Sampson has come pretty close to attaining the mercurial work-balance. When not busy with his patients, he can be found hiking, climbing, paddle boarding, wild swimming… anything that gets him outside soaking up the great outdoors and reconnecting with nature in the beautiful South of Cornwall.
Depth Charge
Many of us have are staying away from the beach for a while, some are confined to our homes, but that doesn’t mean we can’t still train for the surf. If you try the following for just one week you’ll see results, never mind three months…