Goan Cuisine Preserving The Authenticity

As a centuries-old Portuguese colony, Goa was a melting pot for numerous cultures and this reflects in its diverse, but cohesive cuisine. However, in spite of its flavoursome delicacies and its fusion appeal, the chef community in Goa feel that Goan cuisine has not received its due recognition. Express Food & Hospitality spoke to chefs of leading hotel brands in Goa to get their insights on cultures that have influenced this regional cuisine and how its authenticity can be preserved

- Akshay Nayak

Goan food history is uniquely complex, involving various influences and adaptation through decades of changing colonial powers and their trade routes to India. When the Portuguese settled in Goa, they became the single most important influence on the local cultures and cuisine. The Goan vindaloo, for instance, is said to be an adaptation of the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d'alhos (literally translating to meat in garlic and wine marinade). The Goans began making vindaloo with local ingredients, replacing wine vinegar with coconut vinegar. This is just one example of the many paths Goan cuisine has traversed.

The Portuguese influence

The Portuguese influence can be traced to 1498 when Portuguese explorer Vasco De Gama came to Goa. Chef Vinayak Bandodkar, executive chef, Lemon Tree Amarante Beach Resort informs, “The Portuguese started trading with India and brought with them an assortment of goods, including vegetables and spices like potatoes, chillies, tomatoes, cashew nuts, passion fruit and more. They also brought bread, vinegar and various types and cuts of meat. The local cuisine and recipes were transformed, leading to the changing food habits and lifestyle of local Indians. New dishes were introduced, like pork vindaloo and prawn balchao, which have now become staples. Feijodda, a stew made of black beans, is similarly believed to have been brought to Goa from Brazil. Balchao, a pickle-like concoction of typically Goan ingredients such as vinegar, chillies, tomatoes and shrimp, is believed to have evolved from the blachan, a dish made of fermented fish, prawns or sardines which was probably native to either Malaysia, Indonesia or Burma.”