Retro Revival

After her first taste of this German classic – a melt-in-the-mouth mash-up of grilled cheese and Hawaiian pizza – Nikki Werner decides it’s a sandwich that’ll definitely do for dinner, anytime, anywhere.

- Nikki Wermer

Toast Hawaii and I first became acquainted in a village near Stuttgart, while I was visiting my godparents. They rarely allowed my husband and I to reciprocate their hospitality, so when we persuaded them to be our guests at a restaurant of their choosing, it was a major breakthrough.

“Dad would like to go to Heinz,” said their son, relaying the message and referring to the owner of a local bakery with dining room attached. “They make a great toast Hawaii.” I tried reserving judgment, but toast … for dinner? It sounded suspiciously like grilled cheese to me.

A bell jingled as we pushed open the glass door and stepped into a brown-and-orange, wood-panelled tribute to the decade when Heinz had refurbished – I’m guessing the late sixties. In another lifetime, my godfather would meet friends here after soccer practice. And, being a gentleman of his word, he ordered the toast Hawaii.