Anya Melnikova is saving what time destroys. And, because of the work she does, the residents of Buzuluk have begun taking pride in the place they call home, and their obscure little town is even getting its share of the tourist trade.
Anya came to Buzuluk from Vladivostok in the fall of 1996, wearing a white down jacket. After she got out of the car and was eyeing the mud, the puddles, and the decrepit buildings, her jacket was spattered with black slush and could not be rescued. But only a few years later, Anya was on a rescue mission of her own, to bring Buzuluk’s signature architectural style back from the brink. Little wooden masterpieces with features showcasing the uniquely Russian twist on Art Nouveau were disintegrating all over Buzuluk, but none of the townsfolk seemed to have any idea of what was being lost.*
Postcards and Tattoos
When we meet, in a café, Anya is eager to show off her first tattoo. She recently had the word svoboda (freedom) inked just above her wrist.
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Sidewalk Art
The lamentable state of Russiaâs roads and sidewalks has long been fertile ground for memes and jokes. Irkutsk artist Ivan Kravchenko decided to turn the problem into an art project. For over two years he has been patching ruts in city sidewalks with colorful ceramic tiles.
Sputnik V: First Place or Long Shot?
The Russian vaccine seems top-notch, but low public trust and a botched rollout remain formidable barriers to returning to normalcy.
the Valley of the Dead
On the Trail of a Russian Movie Star
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
POLAR YOUTH
Misha Smirnov has the day off. There are the traditional eggs for breakfast and the usual darkness out the window.
Russian Chronicles
Russian Chronicles
A People on the Brink
Over the past century, the ancient people known as the Votes has been exiled twice, has seen its language banned, and has faced the threat of having its villages razed. Today, although teetering on the verge of extinction, it holds fast to one of the last rights it enjoys â the right to bear and to say its own name.
Tenders of the Vine
Visiting Russiaâs Nascent Wine Region
Restoring the Future
A Small Town Gets a Makeover
Ascending Anik
Here I stand, on the summit of Anik Mountain, drenched to the bone amid zero visibility, driving rain, and a fierce wind.