CATEGORIES
Why Does Community Matter?
It might be one of the words most overused in recent fashion history to help sell a brand or product. But if 2020 has taught us anything, it’s that shared beliefs and a sense of belonging can make an impact (and warm the cockles of the heart). Launched in the middle of the excess-loving ’80s, Cartier’s pasha de Cartier was a striking interpretation of the aggressively masculine sporty watches that were taking off at the time. Its case was sumptuously round when most designs on the market were geometric and its can’t-miss-it crown came with an idiosyncratic chain-link cap. This month, it returns to stores – available in 35mm and 41mm in handsome gold or cool steel. And to mark the occasion, the french maison has assembled an unlikely tribe of discipline-spanning celebrity ambassadors whose common denominators are their youth, success and non-conformist streak. Here, an exclusive look at – and message from – this radical pack.
You Say You Want A Revolution?
As with nearly everything else, the fashion industry is undergoing a reckoning and plenty of self-questioning at the moment. How are we going to arrive at answers? No one quite knows, but we thought probing the minds of some of Singapore’s most lucid alternative – and in some cases little-heard – voices on the scene here might help. Keng Yang Shuen reports.
What To Make Of Creative Directors Today?
When tie-ups and three-year-long creative director stints have become the norm in fashion, moncler bucks the trend by hiring the jil sander/phoebe philo-trained veronica leoni (opposite) as the women’s creative director of its 2 moncler 1952 line. (one of only two ranges under the brand’s moncler genius project that’s not by a guest collaborator, it had been designed by the in-house team until her appointment last year.) ahead of the launch of her third collection this month, gordon ng gets an exclusive with this understated ‘insider’b on why a role like hers remains pivotal.
What's The Right Way To Wear Makeup Now?
Fresh out of lockdown, Lucia Pica – global creative makeup and color designer of Chanel – gives noelle loh the exclusive on what now (and next) for cosmetics
Can We Do Without The Hype?
Yoon Ahn is something of a generational definer with a firm place in both the intensely masculine world of streetwear as co-founder of the label ambush and the historically bourgeois realm of high fashion as jewellery director at dior homme. Now, she’s teamed up with bvlgari on a reinterpretation of its signature serpenti forever handbag. Gordon ng probes this extremely in-demand creative’s mind on the future of collaborations and building a business on hype.
What Do People Really Want From Luxury Fashion?
Singapore-based blogger Bagaholicboy, who’s been educating people on how to shop and chronicling “our never-ending quest” for the best designer bags and “life’s little luxuries” on his eponymous website since 2007, gives his take.
Confessions Of A Young Fashion Designer
With an artful eye, a penchant for sculptural silhouettes and an unapologetic flamboyance, recent fashion graduate samuel xun has been lauded as being among the most promising names in his cohort. Here’s what the 25-year-old wants those aspiring to join the business – or who simply want to understand the Singapore fashion scene – to know.
Should One Even Consider Fashion School?
As a founding member of the Singapore art-meets-streetwear label mash-up, co-host of the fashion-focused podcast ‘in the vitrine’, researcher, curator and fashion lecturer at lasalle college of the arts Daniela monasterios tan offers some wise words.
Face Time
Has work-from-home culture taken the magic out of women’s makeup routines (and the cosmetics industry in general)? Beauty buff Aileen Lalor zooms in on what covid has meant for the lipstick effect.
Bedtime Story
It’s the little brown bottle of a serum that was reportedly the first created to repair skin as one snoozes in bed at night. Several cutting-edge, best-selling reformulations after, its latest update taps onto epigenetics to supposedly make one look even more youthful upon waking. Aileen lalor delves into the science of estee lauder’s advanced night repair and its promise of beauty sleep.
Understanding Breast Cancer
Cancer is a condition where abnormal cells divide uncontrollably and destroy body tissue.
Citizens Of The World
According to reports, there are 217,200 singaporeans living abroad. The five individuals from the creative industries featured here are among them and span the berlin-based global sales director of one of fashion’s most successful cult luxury labels to an up-and-coming stylist in shanghai. All of them have remained overseas despite the pandemic. Here, excerpts from their interviews about how they’ve put the “home” into their adopted homelands.
What Is Home, Truly?
Three Singapore female artists show us their interpretation.
Breast Cancer: Landscape and Perceptions of Younger Women
Young women may think that they are too young to get cancer. They are likely to be busy with their career, marriage or setting up a new family. Cancer awareness remains low on their list of priorities. So when it hits, the blow might come even harder.
La Vie En Rouge
“Red is intense, vulnerable, sexual and eternal. There is strength and emotion, warmth and disruption in red. It is a colour that has both a sense of the real and the radical,” says Lucia Pica, global creative makeup and colour designer of Chanel.
What The Female Team Is Into Now
What The Female Team Is Into Now
l.A. Confidential
The buzzy pop culture-influenced, candy colour-loving multimedia artist alex israel has made his hometown of los angeles both his muse and subject. Last year, he got to apply his dreamy vision to fragrance packaging when louis vuitton introduced cologne perfumes, a triptych of evocative scents inspired by America’s golden state. As the brand continues the tie-up with a fourth scent, california dream, revealed this month, keng yang shuen gets the exclusive from israel on his perennial love affair with la – and evolving one with perfumes and collaborations.
Notions Of Intimacy
One’s the young danish designer charming industry insider types with her pretty, artisanally made dresses that fuse the child-like with the conceptual. The other is the Singapore footwear label that’s gone from fast-fashion favourite to global titan in just over two decades. Who would have thought that cecilie bahnsen would be Charles & Keith’s first designer collaborator? Yet as she and emmanuelle macedriskill – the shoe brand’s executive director of planning & product strategy – tell keng yang shuen, this recently launched coupling could just be the way forward with its rewriting of femininty and environmentally conscious ethos.
Becoming Mame
The best collaborations represent the essence of all parties involved. Tod’s t-factory, which invites external names to interpret the italian label’s codes through capsule collections, checks that box. Its third and latest instalment featuring mame kurogouchi also plays incubator, thrusting the up-and-coming japanese label reinvigorating traditional craft techniques with cerebral yet wearable designs onto must-watch lists. Keng Yang Shuen chats with its founder Maiko Kurogouchi and discovers how she might just be the next womenswear talent we’ve all been waiting for.
Down The Rabbit Hole
Singapore artist howie kim translates fantastical, almost trippy pop cultureinfluenced imagery through digital drawings, animated videos and more recently, ar (augmented reality) filters – and now he’s birthed female’s first illustrated cover. Keng Yang Shuen talks to this digital-era boy wizard about his obsession with famous people, embrace of millennial stereotypes and the importance (or irrelevance) of being “real” today.
Don't Worry, Be Happy
Part of the Spanish label’s latest tie-up with Paula’s Ibiza, loewe’s smiley® collection couldn’t come at a better time. In conjunction with its launch this month, creative director JW Anderson shares some wise words on escapism and the art of the yellow smiley.
Enter The United Kingdom
Richard Quinn’s feisty proposition on how women should wear prints – boldly, glamorously and with a hint of kink – has made him one of London’s most exciting young talents in recent years. It also makes him one of the wildest names on the rolodex of moncler genius – the multi-label-rotating, drop-based initiative by the luxury skiwear specialist that’s changed how fashion houses approach collaborations. In an exclusive interview ahead of the launch of his second tie-up with the brand on may 28, he tells Keng Yang Shuen what working with an industry giant means for an up-and comer like him – and the future of fashion.
A Head-To-Toe Care Package
What’s pretty much the cancellation of the mid-year holiday season makes some personal pampering all the more necessary. The best part? The release of a bumper crop of products that lets one treat everything from the tresses to thighs all without having to leave home. Sofia kim curates 15 that’ll help you master the fine, 2020 diy art of self-care.
squiggle room
TEAMING UP WITH A STREET ARTIST HAS BECOME A NEAR FAIL-PROOF WAY FOR A LUXURY FASHION HOUSE TO DRAW PLENTY OF BUZZ AND CUSTOMERS. JOSHUA VIDES HOWEVER IS NOT JUST SOME GRAFFER WHOM FENDI PLUCKED OFF INSTAGRAM AND THE ITALIAN LABEL WANTS A LOT MORE THAN JUST HYPE OUT OF WORKING WITH HIM. KENG YANG SHUEN REPORTS ON HOW THE CALIFORNIA-RAISED SON OF WORKING-CLASS GUATEMALAN IMMIGRANTS FOUND AN UNEXPECTED SUPPORTER IN SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI AND HELPED TO COME UP WITH ONE OF PRE-FALL’S MOST CLEVER COLLABORATIONS.
Ace Of Base
Without them, model layla ong might have never walked for gucci; the cult label youths in balaclava might not look as cool; and, well, some of the stuff you see in this magazine might never have materialised. Keng yang shuen gets 10 usually unseen forces (all women, by the way) who deserve the award for best supporting role in our fashion industry today to step into the spotlight.
The Importance Of Being Honest
With sustainability now part of the mainstream conversation, makeup and skincare brands have increasingly been shining a spotlight on their operational processes that were once hidden at “the back end”. Moh shuying singles out the year’s most noteworthy launches so far that bring new meaning to the term “transparency” in beauty.
Tomorrowland
From its immense carbon footprint to waste production, it’s undeniable that fashion has a sustainability problem. Among the industry giants trying to do their part to change this: net-a-porter with its net sustain initiative that champions brands and products that are human/animal/environmental welfareconscious. Nearly a year into its launch, the e-retailer’s global buying director elizabeth von der goltz tells maya menon how this digital shopping revolution is leading to a socio-ecological one.
A Quiet Place
For all of fashion’s finery and glamour, mental health isn’t something that it’s nailed going by the luminaries it has claimed (this year marks the 10th anniversary of alexander mcqueen’s tragic suicide). The stress and burnout that come with the industry’s cut-throat pace for ideas, merchandise and content mean that those working in it are 25 per cent more likely than others to experience some sort of mental illness, according to reports. The good news: conversation about it has been rousing in recent years, especially within the creative community. Keng yang shuen gets five singapore women from various disciplines who have been vocal about the cause to share more about what you need to know, erase and do next about mental wellness.
Addams Family Values
With its dark yet romantic, counterculture roots, gothic fashion has long offered an escapist source of inspiration for designers. Now a growing crop of young, independent labels are making it their soul and putting a spell on critics and customers alike. Keng yang shuen spotlights the ones to know.
An Over Hundred Dollar Lipstick Could Be Every Woman's New Essential. Here's Why
An over-hundred dollar lipstick that feels as lush as suede, is scented and comes packaged in a brushed gold metal tube might seem like an indulgence. Hermes however thinks it could be every woman’s new essential. Aileen Lalor reports.