Struggling For Breath!

A Das gives insights into the woes of chikankari workers gasping for some respite under the strangle of demonetisation and cheap Chinese goods.

A recent survey undertaken by ASSOCHAM clearly mentioned that the dearth of skilled manpower, lack of awareness amid buyers are the key concern on which the future of chikankari rests. The severity of these issues were just beginning to succumb the hopes of these last few league of skilled workers, when the brunt of demonetisation began affecting the livelihood of these communities in a big way.

The pristine feel of white on white and the sheer elegance and handiwork of the chikankari craftsman, is a tale that is both fashionable yet old school, sensuous yet elegant and classy to the core. The idea of chikan work is very old and there are several ancient stories that hint at the beginning of chikankari in India. Every story is interesting and equally mesmerising. There is a certain sense of ethereal freedom that chikan exudes.

However, “Lack of awareness together with the dearth of skilled manpower is affecting the growth of chikankari as only five per cent of the total production is exported while the rest is sold in the domestic market,” noted a sector specific analysis of chikankari craft conducted by The Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM).

The technique of creation of chikan work is known as chikankari. Chikan is delicate and is a craftily done hand embroidery, on a variety of textile fabrics like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net, etc. White thread is embroidered on primarily white and sometimes, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments. Today, just to bring in a variation and to stay ‘style ahead,’ chikan embroidery is also done with coloured threads and silk threads in colours. Lucknow is the heart of the chikankari industry and the variety is known as Lucknowi chikan.