Timeless Appeal

As modern fashion continues to struggle with identifiable inspirations and pinpointing its place in time, Cruise 2017 finds itself in a romantic limbo that is neither of the past nor the future. Here, the essence of the collections, classic signatures that will outlive the brevity of this season.

- Allysha Nila

CHANEL 

Karl Lagerfeld grasps the opportunity to delve into and mix cultures every Cruise. This season, Cuba – a country on a cinematic pause, known for its classic 50's American cars, miraculously preserved Art Deco architecture, and fragrant cigars and rum – turned up in the collection.

The venue for the show was the Paseo del Prado boulevard in Havana, acting as somewhat of a political bridge, tying Cuba to France and ultimately Gabriel Bonheur “Coco” Chanel herself. Incidentally, the thoroughfare features eight bronze lions (Mademoiselle Chanel’s spirit animal) at every intersection.

Cuba aside, Chanel’s duality of masculinity and femininity remains. This season, Lagerfeld interprets the guayabera, a traditional men’s shirt with vertical pleats and also the collection’s recurrent motif. There are also takes on components of traditional menswear – the waistcoat, the tailored jacket, the tie. These renditions are met with feminine details borrowed from the Rumba or Bata Cubana, resulting in a heavy dose of ruffles, petticoats, tiered dresses, feather-light lace fabrics and splashes of prints in brilliant colours.

The collection’s initial looks, with their muted colour combinations and attention to detail, are timeless pieces definitely worth investing in.

GUCCI 

Gucci knows no bounds. It dares to toy with tradition, rules, culture, history, religion, politics – everything. So when it presented its Cruise 2017 show at the 700-year-old Westminster Abbey, it wasn’t so much of a surprise as much as a “wow, they really went for it” reaction.