SUSEGADO Paradiso: Part Two

A Three Part Series On Goa

- Xenia Jamshyd Lam

After plodding along the meandering roads of North Goa, we fuel up and advance towards the center, the city life, the Capital. But before that, we make our first stop and savour simplicity.

A short walk down a narrow path, into a local hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Florentine, located in the Museum of Goa, Saligao, though scarce and humble in décor, is a familial institution currently run by the third generation of Caetano’s. Recognized for its famous chicken cafreal, a modest but extremely tasty preparation of chicken in thick, green, spicy gravy paired with the Goan poi (local leavened bread made of wheat flour and bran), will most definitely make you swoon.

With our already initiated Goan food fiesta journey and stimulated appetite, we now proceed on to Panaji (still known as Panjim). Picture perfect, as if out of an old book. Earlier known to be a fishing settlement laden with coconut creeks, meadows and trees, it has now transpired into the political and cultural seat of Goa. Situated on the banks of the River Mandovi estuary, a Portuguese colony for centuries, one can now sense the multicultural influence through food, language, art and culture. As colourful grand colonial-era buildings rub shoulders with artsy pop up restaurants, crowded market places, and backstreet bars, a magnificent display of whitewashed ecclesiastical architecture peers over this vivacious city center whilst an expansive verdant promenade flirts with a neon reflected river.