Always kick out and paddle back for…
The ocean is an amazing thing. Think about how it creates storms, floods, hurricanes and tsunamis. The thought crossed my mind last night as I was surfing with my friend Lars at Cayucos Pier, here on the Central California coast.
As he and I traded off waves, we would comment in between rides about how lucky we were to be riding perfect peelers with no other surfers around. This is an age of crowded surf conditions for the most popular surf breaks–be it Newport, Huntington, Trestles, Wind and Sea, or Pipeline. They all suffer from overcrowding and, here we were surfing with just each other. Just then, a voice calls out, “Is that easy to do?” It was coming from up on the pier. A teenage girl with her family and friends was very inquisitive about wave riding. I answered her as best I could. I told her that it is pretty easy, but that I have been surfing for over 60 years and Lars for over 30. She was shocked!
この記事は Standup Journal の Fall 2016 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は Standup Journal の Fall 2016 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
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