At what point in your life did you decide that you were going to try and make surfing your day job?
Ha! I’m not sure, and I guess it is and was every grom’s dream to make a living from surfing. It all just kind of fell into place for me!
Does being a Totnes/Paignton lad give you the urge to travel?
Yes, one hundred per cent, just being from the UK in general, especially back in the day you really had to travel to improve your surfing.
When did you first go to Indo?
I think it was around 93 or 94. I was so scared, and this was back before the government did that big clean up in the late ‘90s. It was all hookers, hawkers and guys shoving drugs in your hands all along Jalan Legian and Kuta. So so wild, it’s a lot tamer now in some regards.
How the hell do you become a boat guide?
この記事は Carve Surfing Magazine の Issue 202 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は Carve Surfing Magazine の Issue 202 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
2020 Wetsuit Guide
If the recent boom in wetsuits sales is anything to go by, the best bit of advice we can give you is make swift decisions and invest quickly. To help you, here’s the lowdown on the best wetsuits on the market right now.
CEYLON STORIES
SERENDIPIDITY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN.
ENGLISH NATIONALS
TOLCARNE TAILSPINS IN THE LAST COMP FOR A WHILE . . . MAYBE
THE ST VALENTINE 'S DAY MASSACRE
ROB MILES AND CALLUM DAVID THOMAS MIX IT UP WITH THE WORLD’S BEST AT ALL TIME SAFI.
BARBADOS
FAMILY FRIENDLY SURF TRIPPING TIPS
GENE GENIE
FROM PAIGNTON THROUGH VARIOUS PROFESSIONAL KITCHENS WITH A SOJOURN IN THE SCOTTISH ISLES EUGENE TOLLEMACHE NOW CALLS INDO HOME AND IS LOVING LIFE
*OCCIDENTAL DRIFT
THE BLEEDING EDGE OF SURF EXPLORATION IS A HOT, INHOSPITABLE PLACE. BUT WORTH THE MISSION.
TASMANIA ART CLUB
BRENDON GIBBENS AND DION AGIUS EXPLORE THE LITTLE CHUNK HANGING OFF THE BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA AND GET CREATIVE
Mr Smith
THE GENIAL ED SMITH IS ONE OF THOSE SURFERS THAT HAS A TON OF ABILITY AND TOYED WITH THE COMP SCENE BUT SOON REALISED A REAL TRADE AND SURFING FOR HIMSELF WAS A WISER OPTION. WE BUMPED INTO HIM ON OUR MISSION TO SCOTLAND, AND HE WAS KILLING IT EVERY SESSION. SUPER STYLISH, ALWAYS DEEP, A PLEASURE TO SHOOT. HE 'S A GOOD BLOKE TO GO FOR A PINT WITH TOO.
SETH MOZ
SETH MORRIS IS A YOUNG PRO FROM A QUIET PART OF WALES. HE JOINED US ON OUR WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL, WHERE HE IMPRESSED ALL WITH HIS STYLISH ATTACK. READ ON FOR A PEEK INSIDE HIS HEAD.
