Malabar Magic

- Chitra Ramaswamy

The trees on either side of the highway make an exquisite silhouette dancing to the gentle breeze under the ornamental sky as we approach our destination. Night drapes the town in its cloak but the bustle on the streets continues unabated as our

Innova pulls up before Hotel Krishna International, one of the few hotels in Vatakara. This region of North Malabar, formerly known as Kadathanadu, Vatakara or Vadakkara (its original name), is a revelation and a beautiful enigma.

It is evident at once that Vatakara and its surrounds are richly steeped in an Aryan-Brahmin cultural ethos, as evidenced by the plethora of associated temples and traditions. The region is as much about folk tradition, martial and theatrical arts, as about strange customs, belief systems, taboos and witchcraft. It is the birthplace of the legendary Thancholi Othenan, hero of the ballad and of Padma Shri awardee Meenakshi Gurukkal, the grand old dame of Kalaripayyattu, Kerala’s martial art form.

But Vatakara is not only about culture and heritage. Nature’s enchantment continues to hold our breath in this picturesque town which offers a wealth of aqua activities on its pristine beaches, and panoramic views of green carpets from its many hillocks.

A boundless December sky dances with flames above the horizon as we begin our explorative sojourn in Vatakara that has the Moorad or Kotakkal river flowing through it. The locals are certainly a brisk and hardworking lot. Morning rituals are already underway with