The Ballad Of Banaras

A First-Timer In The Holy City Gets An Intimate Taste Of Its Classical Music Traditons In Four Cosy Neighbourhood Cafes.

- Chandni Doulatramani

In Banaras, music is everywhere.

It trickles out of the gently lapping waves of the Ganga, from the city’s 84 ghats and the chaotic streets choked with autorickshaws, motorcycles, cows; and from the ancient houses that have accommodated generations of musicians. Hindustani music is one of the city’s most time-honoured traditions; chances are there’s an exponent in nearly every family. For the aficionado versed in every alap and raga, Banaras offers abundant cultural enrichment, from the Sankat Mochan Music Festival and Dhrupad Mela to Ganga Mahotsav, which are among the more popular concerts held here. But to the uninitiated listener, these gatherings could feel daunting and even monotonous. Not to mention, tickets to the more high-profile evenings sell out in advance.

During my maiden trip to the city a few months ago, I was struck by how steeped its classical music culture was. I was sojourning there as a volunteer, helping curious backpackers navigate their way around. On many of my aimless walks through its winding gullies, I acquainted myself with the city’s cafés that always seemed to be teeming with tourists.

For a newbie, these are ideal venues to experience classical music. Amidst a steady throng of hippies and hipsters, most cafés offer intimate live music evenings for free. The musicians here are more accessible, the small venues are informal and exude the feel of your own private concert.

Ganga Fuji Restaurant

“People come to Banaras because it’s old and that’s the charm. Nobody wants to see new things here. So we give our guests a taste of old Hindustani classical music,” says Kailash Prajapati, owner of Ganga Fuji restaurant. Its homely vibe derives from a cosy set-up consisting of a basement arrangement that accommodates guests and a mezzanine floor that turns into a makeshift stage for two musicians.