The taste buds on the side of my tongue are tingling after eating São Jorge cheese. I wince; an apron-clad Gilberto Vieira laughs at my visceral reaction to the slice he cut for me in his grocery store. The room is packed with antique finds, chosen by Gilberto to give a flavour of what life was like in the Azores in the years after the Portuguese first discovered the islands in 1427. A meal at Quinta do Martelo - an ethnographical centre, restaurant and hotel, created over 32 years by Gilberto – begins here at the counter, with petiscos (small plates), which would've been eaten by the settlers who crossed the 1,000 or so miles of Atlantic ocean, travelling west from mainland Portugal. There's boiled corn with salt, tremoços (lupin beans), pickled sea fennel, fiery chilli paste, vinegary fava beans and wheat and corn bread, plus glasses of red wine mixed with orange soda.
Upstairs, in a time warp of a dining room, we tuck into alcatra, a spiced beef stew slow-cooked in a clay pot. It's the totemic dish of Terceira Island, one of nine volcanic islands that make up the Azores archipelago, and reflects the evolution of ingredients and tastes here, as well as the history of the Portuguese who moved here from the country's mountainous north east.
The early settlers on this archipelago – with its often-unforgiving landscape- survived on bland, simple food. But when Portugal embarked on the Age of Discovery in the 15th century, they encountered new spices and foods, and docked their caravels (small sailing ships) at Azorean ports to replenish. Dishes here changed dramatically. Suddenly, the local larder included sweet potatoes, tomatoes, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and pepper. Winemaking, too, began to flourish.
この記事は National Geographic Traveller (UK) の March 2022 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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この記事は National Geographic Traveller (UK) の March 2022 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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