BRITTANY

The French region's Emerald Coast is a treasure trove of stylish resort towns, seafaring history and rugged headland walks with spectacular views

- Carolyn Boyd

Emerald by name, emerald by nature. It’s not hard to see how Brittany’s Côte d’Émeraude got its name: one glance at the startlingly green sea from Cancale to Cap Fréhel and all becomes clear.

In fact, the coast dominates much of life in this corner of northwest France, with its hub, Saint-Malo, boasting a long history of seafaring and exploration. It’s a place to learn about corsairs and other pirates of the 18th century. Meanwhile, across the Rance river, the towns of Dinard and Saint-Lunaire hint at what came next: a period when the area became popular for its elegant beach resorts. Their superb golden-crescent beaches are overlooked by handsome villas, and even today these towns make for a chic getaway, full of smart boutiques and top-notch restaurants.

Peel away from the area’s genteel charms, and its wilder side reveals itself. Easily accessed by ferry from the UK, the coastline is frayed with headlands that jut into the Channel, offering heart-soaring views from high above the sea. Travel west — leaving the busier resorts behind — and the Emerald Coast becomes wilder still, its beaches quieter, its headlands more windswept, home to little more than lighthouses and colonies of seabirds.

DAY ONE COBBLES & CREPES