Weekender Leeuwarden

Capital of the fiercely proud province of Friesland, the Dutch city is embracing its moment as one of this yearsEuropean Capitals of Culture, with exhibitions, sculptures and cultural centres.

- Jo Fletcher-Cross

Friesland isn’t like the rest of the Netherlands. The North Sea has shaped this province’s landscape and history, and the area still retains a strong identity — fiercely independent, friendly, freethinking and welcoming. As far back as 1300, the Frisians created a free state, away from centralised authority with their own language, laws, and traditions. Though they’ve been part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands for a long time now, the culture and language remains.

And Leeuwarden’s unique culture is finally being recognised as one of two European Capitals of Culture this year. This is the first time ever the title has been given to not just a city, but a surrounding area too, and all 11 cities (some of which are actually little more than villages) in the region are taking part. Each of the arty cities is linked by canal, and there was once a famous ice-skating race between them; climate change means the canal hasn’t frozen enough to hold the race since 1997. For the Capital of Culture, world renowned artists have been commissioned to build a fountain in each town, to provide another, perhaps more permanent, link.

But the city is more than that, too — it’s fiercely proud of its famous offspring: exotic dancer and double agent Mata Hari, and mind-bending artist MC Escher. Leeuwarden may be small, but it punches above its weight culturally, historically and aesthetically.