A land of ice and fire

Picturesque in winter with live volcanoes, waterfalls and black-sand beaches, Iceland commands attention. Here's your checklist for an unforgettable trip

Capital gains

Start your Icelandic adventure in compact capital Reykjavik. With its photogenic shopping streets, fascinating museums and waterfront dotted with cosy seafood restaurants (try the langoustine soup at Sea Baron, Geirsgata 8), it's great for a day or two of exploration. Visit Hallgrimskirkja, the cool Guðjón Samúelsson-designed church that looks rather like a spaceship in launch, absorb some local history at the National Museum of Iceland (thjodminjasafn.is), then settle in the Mokka Kaffi (mokka.is) for a decadent Swiss Mocha topped with whipped cream.

Dramatic south coast