France has a long history on horseback, and nearly 2 million French citizens ride âregularly or occasionally,â according to the French Equestrian Federation. The Loire Valley city of Saumurâa three-and-ahalf-hour drive from Parisâis the home of the Cadre Noir of Saumur, the famed instructors from the Ecole Nationale dâEquitation (the French military riding academy), and the heart of the countryâs equestrian obsession.
But Paris is Paris. HermÚs began making saddles here in 1910 and still makes them largely the same way: a single craftsman spending around 30 hours on each one. (They are then specially configured for rider and horse, a process the house says makes them âdouble bespoke.â) HermÚs has kept detailed records of every single saddle, creating the kind of boldfaced nameâdrenched little black book few brands possess. And unlike, say, a Birkin or a Kelly, any Tom, Dick, or Harry can trot up to 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and place a custom order (by appointment only).
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Jersey, JE ΀ÎÎÎ
Nearly 50 years ago a museum opened in Paris.
THE HUNGER GAMES
Two former bons amis grew up in the same expensive suburb and cut their teeth together in the Paris nightclub scene. Then they launched competing restaurant empires, and the gloves came off. Now one of them is facing a suspended prison sentence and a huge fine. Welcome to the city's most delicious grudge match.
HIDDEN in Plain Sight
T&C was invited into the private archives and secret workshops of Paris, to glimpse the treasures that have made this city famous for its style and craftsmanship. It's a reputation worth fighting for.
GUARDIAN of Objects
Laura Kugel is the go-to art dealer for the world's most discerning clients, but her family's Paris wonderland is open to all. Come inside, won't you?
Ecole! Elysée! SCANDALE!
The path to the French White House requires a political education at one of the country's elite universities. As controversy swirls around Sciences Po-class treason, #MeToo à la française, creeping le wokisme-will its grip on power finally slip?
Are There Still Mysteries in Paris?
Surely not, in the world's most visited city! And yet: Why is the Louvre called the Louvre? Why do the upper stories of its 17th-century buildings tilt in? Why do even familiar streets feel so enticing, unknown? One thing is clear: So many of us return because the City of Light is really one of mesmerizing shadows.
High SEAS
How seductive is a cruise on an ultraluxury ship (yes, that's a category) like the new Regent Seven Seas Grandeur? So much so that a 132-day sailing sold out in three hours. It was time to investigate.
The Cruise Cure
One definition of bliss at sea is padding down a ship's hallway from your suite to the spa in a robe and slippers. Here's what awaits.
Only a Day to Spare?
These hotel spas-mini-me's of destination, health retreats punch way above their weight. So, if you're in the neighborhood...
So, Where Do You Ride in Paris?
A fancy equestrian's guide to the best of Gallic galloping.