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Watches by independent makers and microbrands that break the mould are some of the most collectible at the moment.

- GORDON NG

At the most recent edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), often touted as the watch world’s awards equivalent of the Oscars, something interesting happened. Of the 20 categories, 16 prize winners were independent brands and makers. It’s solid evidence that in the realm of watchmaking, indies—which, make no mistake, have been on the rise for well over a decade—have made their mark. It comes at a peculiar and possibly challenging time for the watch industry. Exports of Swiss-made timepieces in 2024, for instance, have dipped for the first time since its post-pandemic high. Tastes, and spending, are shifting across the board for luxury items.

What independent watchmakers offer, in this climate and environment, is a point of difference. Unlike the relatively behemoth establishment players that can have more than a hundred references in its catalogue and produce up to half a million pieces a year, indies and microbrands often have perhaps one or two models in production.

Precisely because resources and production are lean, there is a unique level of purpose and thought that goes into design. Mundane restrictions turn out, as they often do, to be fruitful for clarity and focus. The result is distinction. After all, why bother creating a watch that already exists?

Trilobe

The principal layout and design of a watch dial has remained—for centuries—largely unchanged. At its most fundamental are two- or three-handers, or time-only designs, which tell the hours, minutes and seconds with three centrally mounted hands. The French brand Trilobe, which launched in 2018, approaches watchmaking with the concept of freeing the act and design of time-telling.