The water is bustling with a crowd of surfers jockeying for the playful waves breaking over ash-white sand. In stark contrast, directly across the bay, lie the towering mountain peaks that overlook Dungeons, one of the most fearsome big wave spots on the planet. On large swells, you can see the spray of gigantic waves smashing up against these brooding cliffs from miles away.
“Dungeons is probably the scariest big wave spot in the world,” says Matt Bromley, pointing across the bay. “You never know what it’s going to do, it’s so unpredictable. You’re halfway out in the middle of the ocean and the area where the waves break is the size of a football field. It’s terrifying. But it’s also capable of delivering the best ride of your life.”
Standing at six-foot-three, Bromley has long outgrown his childhood nickname of The Pterodactyl, when he was a gangly-limbed teenager surfing the gentle waves in front of us. Today, the 30-year-old South African is built like an Olympic swimmer and has become known for his exploits at big wave locations around the globe, a journey he traces directly back to the ominous wave in the distance.
“When I was young I’d watch guys surfing the big wave spots around Cape Town and I was just in awe. They’d be riding these huge waves, and I’d be sitting there saying to myself, ‘I want to be a part of that one day.’”
この記事は FHM UK の March 2023 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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この記事は FHM UK の March 2023 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
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