MIZNER & ME

What better way to explore Palm Beach than with the ultimate guide and bon vivant? JANCEE DUNN locks arms with the resort's visionary architect, Addison Mizner, to explore the enclave's legendary sites

- JANCEE DUNN

I have been in love with Addison Mizner, the exuberant Jazz Age architect who left his indelible stamp on Palm Beach, even before I learned that he strolled around town with a pet monkey named Johnnie Brown on one shoulder and a macaw upon the other.

During his heyday, Mizner designed roughly 100 buildings, an astonishing 67 in Palm Beach from 1919 to 1925 (35 of which survive, including John F. Kennedy's mansion La Guerida, dubbed the "Winter White House" and now in private hands). Mizner's lush Mediterranean Revival creations told a story of fantasy, history, and allure, with signature touches such as arched windows, glazed Alhambra-style tile floors, courtyards with splashing fountains, red barrel-tile roofs, wrought iron, and bougainvillea-draped balconies. "I never begin to design a home without first imagining some sort of romance about it," he once said. "Once I have my story, then the plans take place easily."

Frank Lloyd Wright-not a guy to dispense compliments-said of Mizner, "Many architects had imagination, but only [he] had the courage to let it out of the cage."

He was also great fun to be around. Unlike many of the stuffy architects of his day (like Wright), the 6'3", 300-pound creative genius had verve, wit, élan. A self-invented bon vivant, he was seen at all the best parties in Palm Beach. Wealthy people adored his company, which he used to full advantage, donning a tuxedo he called his "fishing clothes" to hook a commission, and vowing to "step with all my might on the charm pedal."

Who better to act as my spirited guide for a spin around Palm Beach?