SURF AND SOUL FOOD

Big-name chefs in search of work-life balance are building a community and revolutionising the food scene in tranquil Pererenan along the southwest coast of Bali, writes Natascha Hawke.

- Natascha Hawke

Wandering down the strip of road strewn with W incense-laden Canang sari-offerings to gods given by the Hindu Balinese-to Pererenan's black sandy beach, you might be forgiven for thinking this is simply another pocket of Bali catering to surf-loving, matcha-latte-sipping travellers. But scratch the surface of this quiet neighbourhood on the island's southwest coast, beside the popular surf spot of Canggu, and you'll find a culinary scene with chefs who cut their teeth in acclaimed restaurants in Sydney, Paris, Barcelona, and London.

Many arrived in search of work-life balance, after years of high-pressure roles under Michelin's scrutiny. Nearly every chef I encounter tells stories of coming back from the brink and rekindling their love of cooking after relocating to this spiritual island.

I meet many of them at Shelter Sessions, culinary collaborations between the eponymous restaurant's executive chef and co-owner, Stephen Moore, another of its chefs, Scott Findlay, and a visiting guest chef.

This is the eighth session, and the tattooed, Michelin-feted Tom Brown of London's Pearly Queen has flown in to co-host two ticketed dining events.