BALI

Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry

- RACHEL LOVELOCK

There’s something powerfully compelling about Balinese food. Whenever I arrive back home on the island, my taste buds immediately cry out for local cuisine. I head straight to the eastern outskirts of the capital, Denpasar, to my favourite warung (a simple roadside stall or shop), Nasi Tekor. This rustic spot recalls Bali in the 1970s and offers a fix of nasi campur, the Indonesian staple of plain rice usually served with vegetables, egg, meat or fish to make up a composite meal. I eat my fill and despite my familiarity with Indonesian and Balinese food, I’m no closer to understanding why I find it so addictive. Certainly, though, it’s in part due to its rich and diverse origins.

“The moment you start exploring the history of Indonesian food, you learn about the trading activities and migration through the Strait of Malacca into what’s now Indonesia,” says Will Meyrick, the famed street food chef. Originally from Scotland, Will has a string of food venues to his name including fusion spot Mama San Bali, in Seminyak, and hip Indonesian restaurant Hujan Locale, in the inland town of Ubud.

“Many of the region’s distinctive flavours and cooking techniques were shaped by early Arabic traders — the Hadhrami merchants of Yemen, as well as the Chinese, Indian and Dutch traders and settlers,” he continues.