REAL DESERT ISLANDS

WHETHER YOU WANT A SLOW PACE OF LIFE OR TO SURF OFF WHITE-SAND BEACHES, FIND YOUR PERFECT REMOTE GETAWAY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

- JAMES STEWART

BEST FOR: RIDING THE WAVES

Thulusdhoo, Maldives 

Palm trees sway in the tropical breeze here just as they do on the private-island resorts that occupy most of the Maldives' 200 or so inhabited islands. But unlike those standalone hotels, this residential island north of the capital Malé still retains its local Maldivian life-albeit local life where Western-style swimsuits are permitted on Bikini Beach and where restaurants and activity providers are dotted around the sandy lanes. That's because Thulusdhoo is no stranger to tourism. Adopted by Australian surfers in the 1970s, the capital of Kaafu Atoll has an easygoing, lived-in charm to suit its tribe of young(ish) saltwater travellers. Experienced wave-riders come for the twin surf breaks of Cokes and Chickens, the latter one of several waves accessible by a traditional dhoni boat. Randhaa Surf Shop provides lessons and hires out boards - no wetsuits needed in bath-warm water. In recent years, paddleboarders have arrived to ride gentler waves and scull through the calmer waters of a turquoise lagoon. This being the Maldives, the diving is terrific and the dinghy sailing a thing of dreams; enterprising local operators offer both at lower prices than private islands. If Thulusdhoo has a catch, it may be that as on all Maldivian residential islands - booze is banned. But the locals are an obliging bunch: they've set up floating boatbars just offshore. And the speedboat to reach them sure beats a traditional taxi.

HOW TO DO IT: Stay at Season Paradise which has doubles from $125 (£101), room only. seasonparadise.mv

BEST FOR: INTREPID BEACH-GOERS

Pemba, Tanzania