A new wave of bright, lower-alcohol reds is a refreshing revelation in summer with a vitality all their own
“Buoyancy,” says winemaker Tim Bailey. “Red wine with fruit buoyancy. That’s what we’re trying to achieve. And that means picking the grapes a little earlier. Which means lower alcohol.”
Bailey is the winemaker at Leconfield in Coonawarra in South Australia, and the buoyant red he’s talking about is a cabernet sauvignon fermented with a few whole bunches of shiraz and cabernet franc. He made it during the 2017 vintage with his mate Dan Redman of the Redman family of local winemakers. It has been released under their Punch Down Boys label, and unlike almost every other Coonawarra cabernet I can think of – certainly in modern times – it sits at a mere 12 percent alcohol. And it’s deliciously, almost dangerously gluggable.
“As winemakers we’ve always known that, when it’s really young, cabernet can have beautiful aromatics and lovely natural-acidity body,” he says. “We’ve just tried to capture that and share it.”
Denne historien er fra February 2018-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
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Denne historien er fra February 2018-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
From personal experience
Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.
Kimberley Moulton
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.
Tom Wallace
We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.
Best in class
The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)
A taste of refuge
Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.
BE OUR GUEST
Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation
Barcelona BUZZ
A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.
HEATHCOTE BOUND
MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.
The art of...relishing restaurants
Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner
HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
