The world-champion surfer on chasing waves, lions and simplicity.
Now that I’m not competing, my job is essentially to find places off the beaten track that have great waves. I’m lucky to work with some great people, like Rip Curl and Red Bull, who send me on surf trips around the world to search for these more raw and wild surf spots. In South Africa this year I camped in the desert for five days and picked crayfish straight off the rocks – it was incredible. Chasing waves, following swells and telling people I’m unavailable because I want to surf is what I do.
Two destinations I keep returning to are South Africa and Fiji. There’s incredible surf, some of the world’s biggest waves, at Cloudbreak off Tavarua, close to the main Fijian island. Plus Fijians are beautiful people. In South Africa you’re surfing one moment, then you drive for two hours and you’re chasing lions. Scary, but fun.
Denne historien er fra May 2019-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
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Denne historien er fra May 2019-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
From personal experience
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
