The Drake Passage
Two hundred years ago, in 1820, Russian Admiral Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen became the first explorer to set eyes upon Antarctica.
This came nearly fifty years after Captain Cook, in 1773, made maritime history by being the first to cross the Antarctic Circle, aboard the HMS Resolution.
Prior to Bellingshausen’s sighting, existence of a southern continent (the last on Earth to be discovered) was still a mythic speculation. The ancient Greeks had been the first to posit that there must be a landmass at the bottom of the Earth, in order to balance the northern continents. The North was called Arktos, the Greek word for “bear,” named after the constellation only visible in the northern sky. Thus, Greek philosophers simply surmised that a comparable Antarktikos was essential for earth’s equilibrium.
This Terra Incognita long captured explorers’ imaginations, and many set out for distant southern waters in hope of finding the elusive continent. In 1520, when sailing through the straight at the bottom of South America that now bears his name, the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan thought that the land sighted to his south could be it.* But it would take another three centuries to discover Antarctica, lying less than 800 miles away.
* The Tierra del Fuego archipelago lies south of the Strait of Magellan. In 1578, the English privateer Sir Francis Drake was blown by a storm out of the strait farther south into unknown waters (now known as the Drake Passage) that implied an ocean existed below the South American continent.
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Sidewalk Art
The lamentable state of Russia’s roads and sidewalks has long been fertile ground for memes and jokes. Irkutsk artist Ivan Kravchenko decided to turn the problem into an art project. For over two years he has been patching ruts in city sidewalks with colorful ceramic tiles.
Sputnik V: First Place or Long Shot?
The Russian vaccine seems top-notch, but low public trust and a botched rollout remain formidable barriers to returning to normalcy.
the Valley of the Dead
On the Trail of a Russian Movie Star
Food & Drink
Food & Drink
POLAR YOUTH
Misha Smirnov has the day off. There are the traditional eggs for breakfast and the usual darkness out the window.
Russian Chronicles
Russian Chronicles
A People on the Brink
Over the past century, the ancient people known as the Votes has been exiled twice, has seen its language banned, and has faced the threat of having its villages razed. Today, although teetering on the verge of extinction, it holds fast to one of the last rights it enjoys – the right to bear and to say its own name.
Tenders of the Vine
Visiting Russia’s Nascent Wine Region
Restoring the Future
A Small Town Gets a Makeover
Ascending Anik
Here I stand, on the summit of Anik Mountain, drenched to the bone amid zero visibility, driving rain, and a fierce wind.