The first look on the runway said it all: A crisp cornflower blue shirt worn underneath an oversize blazer, paired with slouchy corduroy trousers and white sneakers—not a single loafer or leather piece in sight. For a house famed for exactly those two product categories, it was clearly the dawn of a new age. The man responsible for this paradigm shift at Tod’s is Walter Chiapponi, who showed his first collection for the House earlier this year in February for fall/winter 2020. It is Chiapponi’s first creative directorship, but he brings with him years of experience honed at heavyweight fashion names such as Miu Miu, Givenchy, Valentino and Gucci.
Accordingly, his first order of business at the Italian house is to beef up its fashion offering. The studio team in charge of design after Alessandra Facchinetti’s departure in 2016 had mostly stuck to wardrobe staples and timeless essentials—chic, for sure, but not exactly groundbreaking. “I wanted to draw on the Italian lifestyle and elegance, but give it a contemporary twist and a touch of subtle boldness. A big part of my references came from the ’70s. My idea was to rediscover the classics, but imprinted with a gentle rebellion,” says Chiapponi on what he wanted to achieve with his debut collection. That gentle rebellion and subtle boldness came through in his slouchy suiting, the oversize outerwear, the slightly off-kilter colour combinations (like baby blue with chartreuse) and the hints of grunge he injected into the Milanese bourgeois look.
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Denne historien er fra September 2020-utgaven av Harper's BAZAAR Singapore.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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The Great Unknown
It's a fresh chapter for Thai actress Nuttanicha "Nychaa" Dungwattanawanich as she strikes out on her own.
FINDING XANADU
Adventure, magic and freedom await in the land of the blue sky, Mongolia.
TALKING POINTS
From the worlds of Art, Culture, Travel and Design.
TIMELESS LUXURY
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PRIM FOR PRIMETIME
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INSPIRATION
The suave music artiste is no stranger to the world of fashion. In fact, he describes fashion as the forefront of his and his family's personal expression, as well as a form of manners.
WELL, SUITED?
As attitudes towards dress codes shift, is the suit about to exit our closets?
DARK HORSE
In his next role and what is easily his most challenging character to date―actor Brian Ng wants one thing from you: your hatred.
THE POWER OF PERETTI
In a hidden village of Sant Marti Vell in Spain, where Elsa Peretti lived, loved and created enduring symbols of design and beauty for Tiffany & Co., Kenneth Goh traces and marvels at her 50 years of legacy.
REDEFINING ROYALTY
Chaumet's Charles Leung talks to BAZAAR about the beauty and the resilience of the 244-year-old French jewellery brand in a new era.