Dinner started with a fried skate wing. Upon closer inspection, it was skate-wing cartilage—the fish itself having been dispatched earlier to a less liberalminded eater. What remained was salty, crisp and delicately unctuous, especially dipped into a smoked fish head-infused tartar sauce. Next was a precise and refreshing dice of bruised apples, bok choy leaves and fennel tops with an airy chickpea-water pistachio foam; then a restorative beef-end broth; then a lightly cooked egg from scrap-fed hens.
This was in the spring of 2015, when chef Dan Barber briefly turned the tiny West Village restaurant Blue Hill into a performance art piece called wastED. Barber’s cooks used juice pulp, fish skeletons, kale and cauliflower stems. They simmered, steamed, puréed, pressed, fried, and put all the ingredients we often think of as garbage on a brief menu with arch names like ‘cured cuts of waste-fed pigs’ and ‘pasta trimmings’.
The meal was delicious and had the absorbing force of novelty. It also proved prophetic. Five years later, the food world has become obsessed with ending waste. Perhaps it all sounds hippie-dippy. Until you read, as I did in a rarely perused market report, that today the food-waste business is worth US$46.7 billion and is expected to grow five percent per year for the next decade. And that the annual cost of throwing out what we currently do is US$1 trillion. And that 30 to 50 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions can be traced to producing, distributing, storing, cooking and tossing food.
STALE TO STELLAR
Denne historien er fra June 2020-utgaven av VOGUE India.
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Denne historien er fra June 2020-utgaven av VOGUE India.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Breathe In, Breathe Out
A powerful tool to help you master your nervous system or another biohacking buzzword? SIMONE DHONDY explores the inhalations and exhalations of breathwork
Red Pill, Blue Pill
India's nutraceutical industry is booming thanks to advanced technology, distrust of the medical system and rising vanity. With multivitamins becoming purer and more effective, NIDHI GUPTA finds out if supplements have become the new serum
Sign of the times
No longer do you need to have an answer to, \"What is the significance of this?\" when people point to your new tattoo. ARMAN KHAN discovers that everything is on the table when you get inked temporarily
Return to form
Watching the world's most elite athletes deliver the best performances of their careers rekindled SONAKSHI SHARMA's own love for sports
Dimple, All Day
YOU MAY HAVE WATCHED HER ON THE BIG SCREEN FOR OVER FIVE DECADES, BUT DON'T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF ASSUMING THAT YOU KNOW DIMPLE KAPADIA.
MUSIC, TAKE CONTROL
As someone who had always sought safety in numbers, ALIZA FATMA often wondered what her own company would feel like. The answer arrived unexpectedly when she attended her first-ever music festival, one of the largest in the world, all alone
Let it grow
When we think of hardworking farmers toiling in India's scorching heat, we often think of men, the sweat on their brow, the sinews in their arms. JYOTI KUMARI speaks to four women who are championing the invisible female labour that keeps these fields running
YOU'LL NEVER WALK ALONE
When armless archer Sheetal Devi set her sights on the Paralympic Games this year, she knew she had a tough journey ahead of her. Luckily, her mother was with her every step of the way.
Beauty and the feast
The appeal of Indian weddings has always been in a sprawling spread. For additional bragging rights, Aditi Dugar recommends going beyond designer tablecloths and monogrammed napkins.
Sweet serendipity
From a scavenger hunt-inspired proposal to a Moroccan-themed baraat, Malvika Raj and Armaan Rai's love story prioritised playfulness throughout their blended celebrations.
