As far as complications go, the calendar, be it a perpetual, annual or complete (triple) calendar, sits near the pinnacle of watchmaking. To work on this complication (or complications because they are not equal), the watchmaker needs a deep understanding of mathematical calculation, of recognising algorithms and subsequently, the capability to imagine a system of translating these numerical formulas into mechanical form. The counting of seconds, minutes and hours is easy enough because 60 seconds translates into a minute and 60 minutes into an hour, so there is a clear, repeatable pattern for the mechanical structure.
With a calendar, the movement now has to “remember” that yes 60 minutes is an hour but 24 hours represents a day, and 30, 31, 28 or 29 days represents a month. It might also need to recognise specific patterns to the months of a year, and to the pattern of years because there is an extra day in February during a leap year. All this is even more astounding when you imagine that the “memory” of a mechanical movement consists of only a cleverly designed system of wheels, cams, levers and arms.
The Gregorian calendar has long been the international standard for global synchronicity, but before it came into effect in 1582, different civilisations had their own way of understanding the passage of time. Where the Gregorian calendar was based on the earth’s movement around the sun, the traditional Chinese calendar was created based on the lunar and solar cycles and the Islamic, Hijri calendar is based solely on lunar cycles. Separated by time, geography and culture, each of these civilisations looked to the same skies and came to their own conclusions about how best to track the passage of the seasons.
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Denne historien er fra Legacy 2023-utgaven av WOW Singapore.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Hand-Finished Ceramic
Once thought impossible, Blancpain demonstrates how to bring handcraftsmanship to ceramic cases and bracelets with the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de lune 5054
Quanta Of Time
Just as hours, minutes and seconds are quanta of time, so too are days, weeks, months and years. We finally explore the story of the perpetual calendar in particular, in a year that invites such ruminations
Twice Upon A Time
The world's greatest double tourbillon wristwatch, the Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L'horloge is back, with new hand-finishing touches
Coming In Thin
Bvigari’s releases for 2024 continue to stun the watch world with its trail-blazing innovation and sublime artistry
Light The Night
Luminox celebrates 35 years of existence by drawing on its heritage in the realms of the air, land and sea
New Frontiers
The outgoing CEO of TAG Heuer Julien Tornare shares his management style and values. No doubt these will remain consistent in his new role as Hublot CEO, just as they were in his Zenith tenure
Delighting To Surprise
Tissot CEO Sylvain Dolla weighs in on the novelties of 2024
Machine Learning
The mechanical calendar has been perfected over the last 100 years; it remains a challenge that invites multiple watchmaking and engineering approaches. We get into the nuts and bolts of how the perpetual calendar gets the job done
Expedition Hublot
A peek into the manufacture at Hublot reveals the amount of intricacies and technology behind the often quirky watches
STRUCTURAL STYLE
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni explains the logic of the new Toric collection and takes us through his thoughts on style and elegance