As far as complications go, the calendar, be it a perpetual, annual or complete (triple) calendar, sits near the pinnacle of watchmaking. To work on this complication (or complications because they are not equal), the watchmaker needs a deep understanding of mathematical calculation, of recognising algorithms and subsequently, the capability to imagine a system of translating these numerical formulas into mechanical form. The counting of seconds, minutes and hours is easy enough because 60 seconds translates into a minute and 60 minutes into an hour, so there is a clear, repeatable pattern for the mechanical structure.
With a calendar, the movement now has to “remember” that yes 60 minutes is an hour but 24 hours represents a day, and 30, 31, 28 or 29 days represents a month. It might also need to recognise specific patterns to the months of a year, and to the pattern of years because there is an extra day in February during a leap year. All this is even more astounding when you imagine that the “memory” of a mechanical movement consists of only a cleverly designed system of wheels, cams, levers and arms.
The Gregorian calendar has long been the international standard for global synchronicity, but before it came into effect in 1582, different civilisations had their own way of understanding the passage of time. Where the Gregorian calendar was based on the earth’s movement around the sun, the traditional Chinese calendar was created based on the lunar and solar cycles and the Islamic, Hijri calendar is based solely on lunar cycles. Separated by time, geography and culture, each of these civilisations looked to the same skies and came to their own conclusions about how best to track the passage of the seasons.
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Denne historien er fra Legacy 2023-utgaven av WOW Singapore.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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NEW FRONTIERS
The outgoing CEO of TAG Heuer Julien Tornare shares his management style and values. No doubt these will remain consistent in his new role as Hublot CEO, just as they were in his Zenith tenure
STRUCTURAL STYLE
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni explains the logic of the new Toric collection and takes us through his thoughts on style and elegance
THE CONVERSATION: APROPOS COMPLICATIONS
A watch with complications appeals to different sorts of collectors, and is quite different to a complex watch. The editors of Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand discuss the virtues of all sorts of complications and consider when more is really better...
EUREKA MOMENTS
Our extended look at gold in watchmaking comes to a close in this third and final part, with a look at five proprietary gold alloys. Of course, there are certainly more than five so we will leave the door ajar on going even further
MACHINE LEARNING
The mechanical calendar has been perfected over the last 100 years; it remains a challenge that invites multiple watchmaking and engineering approaches. We get into the nuts and bolts of how the perpetual calendar gets the job done
CULTURAL SENSE
The story of our calendar and why it is rife with anomalies
QUANTA OF TIME
Just as hours, minutes and seconds are quanta of time, so too are days, weeks, months and years. We finally explore the story of the perpetual calendar in particular, in a year that invites such ruminations
PURPLE REIGN
H. Moser Cie brings a brand new dial to the party with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
AUTUMN HUE
Grand Seiko continues its celebration of the 20th anniversary of Calibre 9R with the limited edition SBGA499
TWICE UPON A TIME
The world's greatest double tourbillon wristwatch, the Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L'horloge is back, with new hand-finishing touches