Now that the former Lygon Food Store, a 66-year Italian veteran of Lygon Street, has become a modern Asian diner, it’s hard to resist the changing-of-the-guard story. And while it’s true that Lygon Street’s Italian accent is not as strong as it once was, the better story here is not about loss but gain. Lagoon Dining adds something fresh and relevant to the mix, bringing texture and depth to Lygon Street’s canvas.
Texture also comes to mind with Lagoon’s fit-out. The moodily lit room with its whitewashed brick walls, rough-edged black granite bar, mustard-coloured curtains at the front door, open kitchen, banquette seating and bright-yellow waving lucky cats is intimate and tactile. There’s texture on Lagoon’s mostly Chinese menu too, starting with a sensational hot-and-sour shredded potato dish. Chefs Keat Lee and Ned Trumble, who’ve previously worked together at Ezard and Longsong, nail simplicity and balance with these desiree spuds. They’re julienned, soaked overnight and chucked into a wok with garlic, chilli oil and Sichuan pepper so that they emerge with an enormously satisfying spice burn and barely cooked crunch. They’re splashed with Chinkiang vinegar and tossed with pickled enoki mushrooms, and should be on everyone’s radar.
Denne historien er fra February 2020-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
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Denne historien er fra February 2020-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
From personal experience
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HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.