When French chef Auguste Escoffier devised A Guide To Modern Cookery in 1903 (still in print and referenced widely in cookery), he catalogued the mother sauces, originally established by Marie Antoine Carême in the late 18th century. The selection of cooked and warmed sauces form the cornerstone of what chefs learn when they first begin culinary school, and set the foundations for a universe of saucy deviations, or what Escoffier pegs as secondary, daughter or small sauces. He also prescribes what a good sauce should be: smooth, light (without being watery nor too viscous), glossy to the eye, and decided in taste. The modern evolution of these sauces means some of the mother sauces such as tomato and espagnole - are not commonly used in kitchens anymore, making way for the 'small' sauces to be firmly embedded in modern French cuisine. Here, we speak to chefs Guillaume Brahimi and Elsa Marie about the five mother sauces, and explore a glossary of other beloved French classics.
BÉCHAMEL
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Denne historien er fra June 2022-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
