After three years of tumult and a series of front-page headlines, few people were surprised when Made Establishment entered voluntary administration in February. The move sounded a death knell for the hospitality empire led by George Calombaris and ignited a fierce debate over who was to blame for the collapse. Only one thing is clear: there are no winners in this situation.
Hundreds of employees, from waiters and chefs to cleaners and support staff, lost their jobs overnight as the company’s 18 Melbourne venues were forced to shut, including Gazi, Jimmy Grants and Elektra.
But despite the high-profile nature of the closures and the ensuing rhetoric around “industry in crisis”, one of the most significantly impacted groups has barely been mentioned. Producers and suppliers, the backbone of the hospitality industry, have been left out of pocket following the group’s collapse. It’s a knock-on effect of the restaurant empire’s wage scandals, which have forced small businesses to cut back staff and face thousands in unpaid bills.
Gerry Katiforis runs Fresh Generation, a supplier of fruit, vegetables, eggs and native ingredients. He counts Made’s group of restaurants, as well as the AFL Grand Final and many of Melbourne’s top hotels, among his clients. Trading for almost 30 years, Fresh Generation sources seasonal ingredients direct from Victorian growers, whose produce Katiforis says is fundamental to the success of the venues they deliver to. “There was at least one of our products on every single dish, from the starter through to the dessert,” says Katiforis.
Denne historien er fra April 2020-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
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Denne historien er fra April 2020-utgaven av Gourmet Traveller.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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From personal experience
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HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.