Difficult, expensive wine projects have exerted a lifelong gravitational pull on Pablo Álvarez Mezquíriz-one that has not weakened with time. Two years shy of his 70th birthday-the date he has promised to step down as CEO of his Vega Sicilia Spanish wine empire-Álvarez announced earlier this year he is building a new winery in Galicia, named Deiva, with the goal of producing an iconic white wine.
"I have always wanted to create a world-class Spanish white, similar to a top Burgundy, and I believe the Albariño grape has that unique potential," he told Wine Spectator during a recent visit to New York. A man of few words and fewer smiles-Álvarez was in town to unveil the new vintages of his estates' wines, highlighted by Bodegas Vega Sicilia, which is widely considered to be Spain's first-growth. As we tasted the 2017 Valbuena and the crown jewel Unico 2012, he explained how his journey to craft a great white wine in Spain has been long in the making.
Back in the mid-1990s, Álvarez planted Chardonnay and Rhône white wine varieties at Vega Sicilia's estate in Ribera del Duero, with less than-ideal results. After looking around in Burgundy ("No one can afford to buy in Burgundy!" he complained) and a successful white wine project in, of all places, Hungary, he refocused on Spain and, for the past four years, has been busily buying up vineyards in the Rías Baixas region of Galicia in northwest Spain.
So far, the company has invested $20 million, and the first cuvée will be released in 2025. It will take many vintages beyond that first release to achieve Burgundian-like finesse and complexity, he said, but he's confident that eventually he will do just that.
Denne historien er fra July 31, 2022-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
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Denne historien er fra July 31, 2022-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
New Zealand's Success Story - From small beginnings, the country's wines have ascended to global prominence
Since then, New Zealand has become one of the world’s most successful wine nations. Currently there are 102,000 acres planted, and 40 million cases were sold in 2023, according to the New Zealand Winegrowers. The tiny country produces less than 2% of the global wine supply, but it’s the world’s sixth-largest exporter of wine by value. Another thing that’s evolved? The image of corks no longer applies, as most vintners there eschew cork (only about 15% of the wines we review still use the closure).
Wine Is Healthiest Choice for Drinkers - Decades of research has linked light to moderate drinking, especially of wine, to a range of health benefits.
There’s also strong evidence that alcohol consumption raises the risk of certain cancers and that heavy drinking carries serious health risks. But the reasons why moderate drinking seems to be neutral or beneficial for some people and harmful for others remains a mystery.A new study sought to solve that puzzle. Looking at health and lifestyle information for a large population, the researchers found that while any alcohol posed risks for adults with existing health problems from poorer areas, healthy adults from wealthier areas suffered no additional risks from moderate drinking, and those who drink wine with food even enjoyed better health.
In Pursuit of the Perfect Crust
“Dough is always the hardest challenge for any home chef,” explains chef and restaurateur Tony Gemignani. “But it’s the foundation of any great pizza.”
SEAVEY VINEYARD
In Napa’s Conn Valley, a family-run winery marches to its own drum
CALIFORNIA RHONES Show Their Range
RECENT VINTAGES DELIVER EXCELLENT REDS AND WHITES IN AN ARRAY OF STYLES
Tuscany Comes of Age
Anchored by the 2021 vintage, Tuscan reds set a new standard of quality
The Absolute Best Places to Eat and Drink in America
PROFILES OF THE 63 WINE SPECTATOR GRAND AWARD WINNERS ACROSS THE COUNTRY TODAY, AS THE PROGRAM MARKS ITS 44TH YEAR
Events- A Grand Tour for Wine Spectator- a perfect day with an evening of outstanding wines.
A young couple in shorts and festival shirts sped into the ballroom of the New Orleans Marriott on a mission.
Big Wine Players Target Pinot Noir - Plenty of small winery owners are cashing out, either because they're looking to retire or they see selling as the best way to keep their label growing
Plenty of small winery owners are cashing out, either because they’re looking to retire or they see selling as the best way to keep their label growing
Restaurant Awards- Lazy Bear- Lazy Bear bills itself as a modern American dinner party. But it's so much more.
Lazy Bear bills itself as a modern American dinner party. But it’s so much more. This Mission District restaurant effortlessly strips away the formality of a multicourse dinner and replaces it with conviviality, nostalgia and curiosity. With reverence for time and place, Lazy Bear is an ode to California where guests dine in concert with the season and can explore diverse wines, including an impressive collection of older California vintages.
