The popularity of sparkling wine sees no signs of letting up, with winegrowing regions around the world producing outstanding examples to satisfy global demand. Yet despite the ongoing competition, France's Champagne region maintains its premier position. The wines' reputation for luxury is part of the lure for consumers, but more important is their remarkable level of quality. This is especially true of bottlings from the crème de la crème of Champagne houses, which deliver complexity and depth of flavor seamlessly knit to vibrant acidity and fine texture.
Looking at the broader market for Champagne, it's my impression that there's greater diversity today than there was 10 years ago or even five years ago. This evolution has been fueled by a number of factors, including a huge spike in Champagne sales post-pandemic. More than anything, though, Champagne has come to be accepted as a wine in its own right, beyond the occasional celebration—a wine to pair with food, a wine to cellar, a wine to explore in its range of expressions. Serious consumers want to look beyond the handful of well-known names to find producers homing in on specific terroirs or offering distinctive styles.
As positive as it is for wine drinkers to have more options to try, it's important to remember that not all Champagne is created equal. Because of the changing nature of the marketplace, I expanded the number of producers in my Champagne tastings this year to encompass some names whose previous availability in the United States was either limited or non-existent. Bottlings from these wineries represent almost 20% of the total number of wines under review. Although there were some very pleasant surprises, such as a trio of 2019s from grower-producer Adrien Renoir, more often than not the wines from these "newbies" did not show the same qualitative strength as those from producers that have been regularly featured in my tastings.
Denne historien er fra December 15, 2024-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
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Denne historien er fra December 15, 2024-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
