Road To Redemption

Something extraordinary is happening at HMP Aylesbury, where a roastery is changing inmates’ lives. Phil Wain investigates coffee’s positive impact

- Phil Wain

We couldn’t escape a slight feeling of trepidation as we arrived at HMP Aylesbury, the imposing Victorian young offender institution on the outskirts of the Buckinghamshire town. The feeling increased as we were escorted through the gates to go through several layers of security – including giving up our phones. However, it faded as we reached Redemption Roastery, where we’d been invited to see the impact an innovative scheme is having on inmates who are training as baristas and roasters.

We could have been in any roastery as we were met by eager trainees who asked us what we’d like, and we saw that familiar nervousness as the baristas made sure the espresso shot and milk steaming were just so. A flat white made with Ugandan Mahango beans – selected from a cupping table by a trainee with evident good taste – hit the spot. Notes were of raspberry, honey and peanut butter and it combined superbly with the Estate Dairy milk.

The space is dominated by the gleaming copper roaster. On one side of the room, there’s a Faema E61, the training machine, and on the other side a Faema E71, the coffee shop machine – graduating from one to the other is a motivating goal for trainees. The coffee shop is open all day, serving prison staff who like to pop in for a chat and a cup. So how did this programme come about?

Justice for all

Max Dubiel and Ted Rosner, who were running a small coffee wholesaler, were approached by the Ministry of Justice with a view to opening a roastery and training centre to help reduce rates of reoffending at the institution, which holds young men between the ages of 18 and 21. The UK has some of the highest reoffending rates in the western world, but having skills and a job reduces those rates by half.