Age of Ambition

Asia’s world-class jewellers are leveraging their heritage and swiftly becoming a force on the global stage

- Annie Darling

From fantastical inspirations to the world’s most precious gemstones, there’s a palpable intensity to the growing pool of high jewellers that have emerged from Asia over the past few years. Hong Kong-based Wallace Chan’s glittering sculptures, Singapore-born Edmond Chin’s one-of-a-kind creations and Michelle Ong’s art deco-inspired designs indicate that Asia has no shortage of world-class talent, and pieces by the region’s most outstanding jewellers are proving to be record breakers at auction. “Buoyed by Asia’s cultural and spending influence on the global luxury market, the region’s top and emerging jewellery designers are having their moment,” says Vickie Sek, chairman of the jewellery department at Christie’s Asia. “Cultural affinity has inspired contemporary jewellers to explore unique East-meets-West aesthetics, which appeal to a wider audience.”

China is the largest jewellery market in the world, with this year’s sales already totalling almost US$18 billion, according to data provider Statista. And Asia’s designers, says Wenhao Yu, deputy chairman of jewellery at Sotheby’s Asia, have an edge—partly because of the designers’ own development of their craft, and also as a result of the “ever-increasing influence of Asia’s culture and the heightened buying power of Asian clients”.

International auction houses have also been instrumental. “By featuring designs that stand out in the Asian market, talented designers are given further international exposure, which has also enhanced their global influence,” says Yu.