OLD STITCH, NEW THREAD

The cover girls of this issue are wearing a wonderful fusion of tradition and modernity, thanks to a vibrant collection from Raw Mango. AINDRILA MITRA speaks to the brand’s founder and textile designer, Sanjay Garg, about the collection, sustainable fashion, and measured innovation within traditional textile practices.

- AINDRILA MITRA

Our cover shoot has been styled in Raw Mango’s latest collection, Moomal. What was the inspiration behind it?

Moomal is from an old love story from Rajashtani folklore, but more about a woman who lives by her own rules, unafraid to embrace customs and rituals while still upholding her values. She doesn’t shy away from traditions but seeks a balance. I was born in Rajasthan, and a collection drawing from the state has evolved over the years. This collection, in particular, draws from a continued lens of questioning the perceptions of classic and folk.

How does travel inspire you as a designer?

Travel opens the eyes, mind, and heart. My love for collecting textiles and antiques has led me to various corners of the country and abroad. Travel is a part of my work, and like all inspiration, it is not easily defined.

You work closely with handlooms and artisans. What are some of your favourite Indian weaves?

Chanderi is one of my favourites. Raw Mango began with the innovation of this textile, and I am glad it has found renewed interest since then. We have always tried to engage with the visual vocabulary of India through measured interventions within traditional practices, and also by revisiting earlier processes of engineering garment patterns on the handloom. These interventions continue to inform each collection, and I have love for all the textiles we create—and the ones I collect.

How challenging has this pandemic been for you? What have been the key learnings?