All Aboard Through France's Pretty Waterways

Take to the waterways for a family-friendly adventure with french flair.

- Richard Holmes

With its mix of historic cities, glamorous boulevards, chic boutiques and endless culinary discoveries it’s not hard to understand why France is the world’s most popular tourist destination. But sometimes the crowds start to wear me down, and I long for a bit of unfiltered French countryside -- a bit of space, where selfie-sticks are seldom seen and local markets trump international brands.

Which is how we – my wife and seven-year-old son in tow – found ourselves leaving Paris behind as our TGV train sped to the south-west. Our destination? The charming little town of Jarnac, where we’d stock up on supplies and step aboard for a week of barging on the Charente River.

Over the past decade barging holidays have become a hugely popular way to discover the French countryside, with self-drive boats allowing you to explore towns and villages off the tourist track. And it’s all done at a leisurely pace that allows you to relax and reconnect with family without rushing between those ‘must see’ sights. On the river, time slows down, and you’ll mark the days in market visits and your next leisurely meal, not your next Insta-story.

There are beautiful rivers to explore across France, but we had chosen the sinuous Charente River in central France. From its source at Chéronnac, the Charente flows for 380-kilometres through pastoral scenery of farmland, vineyards and scenic villages. With some of the cleanest water in France, it’s perfect for swimming too.

We’d hired a luxury barge from leading European operator Le Boat, and after a brief tutorial about piloting the boat, and life on board, we were ready to cast off. With a clear chart of the river in hand, and seven days stretching out ahead of us, we had one simple decision to make. We left it to my son: left or right on the map.