Far From HOME

For chefs Chen Kentaro and Akane Eno, leaving home to bring their culinary heritage abroad is a journey of reinvention and resilience

- SNG LER JUN

ICHIGO ICHIE BY AKANE ENO

What makes a meal unforgettable? Some might say it's the flavours on the plate, the company that one indulges with, or even the thoughtful conversations that unfold during a meal. In Japan, there is a phrase that captures this sentiment: 'Ichigo Ichie' (一期一会). Often translated to "one life, one moment", the ancient proverb means that every encounter whether with a person, at a place, or over a meal — is unique and should be treasured for its singularity. At the restaurant Ichigo Ichie (一期一江), Japanese chef Akane Eno embodies this philosophy, offering diners a celebration of time's fleeting beauty through the artistry of kappo cuisine.

Kappo, meaning "to cut and cook", is often misunderstood. On one end of the spectrum is kaiseki, with its rigid structure, intricate preordained courses, and roots in formal tea ceremonies. On the other is izakaya dining, which boasts a more casual, convivial dining experience. Kappo falls somewhere in between. "It comprises food that can be served raw or cooked," explains Eno.

In Ichigo Ichie's case, diners sit at the counter, which is the same height at which Eno prepares and cooks, unobstructed and able to watch Eno's every movement. Eno likens this to having a conversation: reactive and personal. Diners can witness how she prepares a meal and sometimes make requests, too. In Eno's hands, there is a performative grace. Of course, some form of Eno, who began her career as an art history student in Tokyo, carries that duality in her work.

Her food is as visually compelling as it is nuanced in flavour. "Ingredients are important in kappo," she says, welcoming the harvests of each season as a surprise. But the seasons can present challenges for her to concoct dishes. "I am a foodie. So, I take inspiration from the food I eat and where I eat them," she says.