Eric Ewers joined the team at Grasing’s as wine director in 2020. When the restaurant transitioned to takeout service due to COVID restrictions, Ewers had time to do a thorough inventory of the wine collection he’d inherited.
He was impressed. The deep collection of California wines included verticals of Williams Selyem Pinot Noir and bottles of Napa cult Cabernet Harlan dating to 1991. There were also plenty of collectible older Bordeaux. But Ewers also saw an opportunity to bring in new wines—secondgrowths, young Burgundies, a broader selection of California, a deeper dive into Italy and better representation from the Southern Hemisphere. Building on relationships and purchasing private wine collections offered additional rare gems. “It’s not about adding more where we were already strong. It’s about balancing where we were and where we had great potential to be stronger,” Ewers explains.
Four years and 1,000 new wines later, the list is among the most compelling in the world. Ewers insists he is only continuing the work of founding chef and proprietor Kurt Grasing.“Kurt is passionate, methodic and long term about this program,” explains Ewers. “He’s just such a genuine good soul. He’s engendered that in the people around him. And you can see it in his long-term, 20-year clients. They feel like family with him.”
Denne historien er fra August 31, 2024-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
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Denne historien er fra August 31, 2024-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
