Since its opening in 2007, Napa Valley's Press delivered a classic steakhouse experience and built an extensive Napa Valley-only wine list heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon. The formula for success was simple, and Press became beloved by locals and visitors alike.
But in mid-2018, owner Leslie Rudd died. And by then, the wine list was showing signs of attrition as diners plundered the cellar of its older and hard-to-replace vintages. Rudd's daughter, Samantha, who had no formal role in the restaurant previously, was thrust into the owner's role.
"It surprised me what a tough business a restaurant is," says Rudd.
"Curtains are open every night. If you fumble, everyone sees it." Among her first moves was to hire chef Philip Tessier as a consultant in June 2019. Tessier is no stranger to Napa, having worked with chef Thomas Keller in both Yountville's Bouchon and the French Laundry. (New York's Le Bernardin and Per Se are also on his résumé.) But Tessier, the first American to lead a winning team at France's prestigious Bocuse d'Or cooking competition, wasn't sure whether an American steakhouse was the right fit for him.
"At that time, it was in dire straits," says Tessier of Press. "Leslie had recently passed. They had gone through six chefs in two years. I thought, I'll do this consulting for a few months while I was looking to open my own place in Yountville."
Then COVID-19 hit, and Tessier's plans for his own place were derailed. Rudd decided to offer Tessier the full-time role at Press, a move she knew would result in a massive shift in the kitchen, but one she was confident in.
Denne historien er fra August 31, 2022-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Denne historien er fra August 31, 2022-utgaven av Wine Spectator.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
New Zealand's Success Story
From small beginnings, the country’s wines have ascended to global prominence
Wine Is Healthiest Choice for Drinkers
Decades of research has linked light to moderate drinking, especially of wine, to a range of health benefits.
In Pursuit of the Perfect Crust
“Dough is always the hardest challenge for any home chef,” explains chef and restaurateur Tony Gemignani. “But it’s the foundation of any great pizza.”
SEAVEY VINEYARD
In Napa’s Conn Valley, a family-run winery marches to its own drum
CALIFORNIA RHONES Show Their Range
RECENT VINTAGES DELIVER EXCELLENT REDS AND WHITES IN AN ARRAY OF STYLES
Tuscany Comes of Age
Anchored by the 2021 vintage, Tuscan reds set a new standard of quality
The Absolute Best Places to Eat and Drink in America
PROFILES OF THE 63 WINE SPECTATOR GRAND AWARD WINNERS ACROSS THE COUNTRY TODAY, AS THE PROGRAM MARKS ITS 44TH YEAR
Events- A Grand Tour for Wine Spectator- a perfect day with an evening of outstanding wines.
A young couple in shorts and festival shirts sped into the ballroom of the New Orleans Marriott on a mission.
Big Wine Players Target Pinot Noir - Plenty of small winery owners are cashing out, either because they're looking to retire or they see selling as the best way to keep their label growing
Plenty of small winery owners are cashing out, either because they’re looking to retire or they see selling as the best way to keep their label growing
Restaurant Awards- Lazy Bear- Lazy Bear bills itself as a modern American dinner party. But it's so much more.
Lazy Bear bills itself as a modern American dinner party. But it’s so much more. This Mission District restaurant effortlessly strips away the formality of a multicourse dinner and replaces it with conviviality, nostalgia and curiosity. With reverence for time and place, Lazy Bear is an ode to California where guests dine in concert with the season and can explore diverse wines, including an impressive collection of older California vintages.
