SPAIN NEVER BETTER

Newly released vintages of the country's prestige reds and a variety of distinctive whites invite exploration

- ALISON NAPJUS

Thrilled with the spectrum of wine styles and the high quality on display from the wines of Spain, I titled last year’s annual tasting report “Spain’s Bounty” (July 31, 2023). This year, that plenty is strengthened by a string of largely outstanding recent release vintages across most of the country’s appellations, led by 2019, 2020 and 2021.

This is particularly true of Spain’s three primary regions for red wines: Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Priorat.

“These three vintages were officially qualified as ‘excellent’ by the [Ribera del Duero] regulatory council, and indeed they were for us,” says Estefanía Rodero Villa, owner of Pago de los Capellanes in Ribera del Duero. “Although each [was] under quite diverse climatic conditions,” she adds, comparing the impact of 2019’s heat, the rain and cool conditions of 2020 and the even cooler conditions of 2021. Capellanes released seven wines this year from the 2019, 2020 and 2021 vintages. All but one rated 92 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, peaking with the sleek and fragrant Ribera del Duero Parcela El Picón 2019 (96, $275), from a 4-acre plot of old vines near the winery itself.

The 575 wines reviewed since last year’s report encompass 15 different vintages in total, from 2009 to the recent 2023 vintage, as well as non-vintage bottlings. This range only highlights the diversity among current Spanish offerings. My tastings topped out with Bodegas Vega Sicilia’s distinctive multi-vintage blend of the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages, the Ribera del Duero Unico Reserva Especial NV (97, $875).

Other highly rated bottlings encompass both single-vineyard or single-cru wines that explore specific