RESTAURANT REVIEW: Le Même Veau

The Frenchette crew has taken over the 87-year-old restaurant, and the snails are as garlicky and the duck as pink as ever.

- MATTHEW SCHNEIER

Since 1937, Le Veau d’Or has sat squat and immobile on East 60th Street across from Bloomingdale’s, whose perfume spritzers might well have begun their spritzing primarily to combat the waft of garlic. Le Veau d’Or—“the Golden Calf,” at 87 surely the world’s oldest—has always been a testament to Frenchness served froggy, even before the sizzling cocotte of legs arrives at your table. In its mid-century heyday, it served the French country cuisine that was still the mark of nonpareil sophistication to the city’s grandees; the old Le Veau was the sort of place where "Dave" Selznick would be spotted by The Daily News dining with Jennifer Jones, for whom he had recently left Irene Mayer.