"I've constantly tried to provoke people into thinking afresh and for themselves, to escape their inhibitions and programming." Traditionalist, provocateuse and ultra-contemporary voice, Vivienne Westwood was one of British fashion's most famous and contradictory - designers. She helped create Punk with Malcolm McLaren, the Sex Pistols manager, with whom she sold off-the-peg bondage and fetish wear to prostitutes from their 430 King's Road, London store, which in 1974 changed its name to SEX to coincide with its collections. She transitioned to the New Romantic period of the early '80s (think dandy highwayman Adam Ant in turn-topped, buckled leather knee-high boots belting out Stand and Deliver) and parodied Britain's upper classes by the decade's end.
From edgy printed protest T-shirts to sumptuously elegant ballgowns, Westwood was a meticulous researcher and "plunderer" of the past, continually raiding historical fashion and art - to realise contemporary fashion's most original looks. She appropriated from French Rococo painter Antoine Watteau (the sack dress) and François Boucher (Madame de Pompadour's silk dress) at the Wallace Collection, and printed facsimiles of favourite paintings directly onto her designs in the '90s.
And what about those shoes? Who can forget Naomi Campbell falling flat on her derriere in Westwood's vertiginous nine-inch platforms as part of the Paris Autumn/Winter 93 show? And Kate Moss, who walked the runway topless wearing Marie-Antoinette face paint while slurping ice cream for the Erotic Zones Spring/ Summer 95 extravaganza.
As the millennium came and went, Westwood leveraged her rebel aesthetic into a platform for activism. "Capitalism is a crime. It is the root cause of war, climate change and corruption," she said, and began compiling her own manifesto.
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Denne historien er fra March 2023-utgaven av Prestige Singapore.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Sailing Into A Dream
Scenes from the fantasy feature Game of Thrones come to life in the otherworldly landscapes of the Arctic Circle.
Here Come The Sun Seats
Italian furniture has long held the crown for blending luxurious, sophisticated design with impeccable craftsmanship.
ABSOLUMENT FAB
France's premier fair for fine-art and antiques returns for its third edition inside its new home in the Grand Palais.
Through the Director's Lens
Filmmaker JIA ZHANGKE and his protégé RAFAEL MANUEL share their perspectives on life, cinema and their current projects.
THE CUTTING EDGE
Having long played quiet supporting roles in the gem industry, gem cutters are finally having their day in the sun. Four acclaimed independent master gem cutters share more about their love of the craft and the creation of their best pieces.
Spheres of Power
Following up on the gold- and titanium-focused Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams launch collection, the superstar now turns to pearls for a softer, but no less striking, second act.
Horological Masterpieces Reimagined
Beyond the wrist, these timekeepers transcend all traditional boundaries.
WILD IMAGINATION
Cartier's latest category-spanning Panthère de Cartier novelties showcase the endless ways in which the panther continues to inspire.
READY FOR ACTION
The latest watch to come from the celebrated Richard Mille and McLaren partnership looks set to be another trailblazing timepiece.
THE RIGHT ANGLES
Twenty-five years after the launch of its last new collection, Twenty-4, Patek Philippe introduces the Cubitus range.